Trenino Verde: Sardinia's Secret Railway Adventure Through Time and Nature
If Sardinia had a heartbeat, it would echo along the tracks of the Trenino Verde. A nostalgic ride through one of Italy’s most enigmatic islands, the Green Train offers an experience so rare, raw, and romantic that it feels more like stepping into a storybook than boarding a locomotive. Whether you’re an adventurer, photographer, history buff, or simply a curious traveler, riding the Trenino Verde is a must-do.
A Short Ride Through History: The Trenino Verde
The Trenino Verde (“Little Green Train”) isn’t just a charming way to explore Sardinia — it’s a living piece of history. Originally built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the narrow-gauge railway was designed to connect the island’s most remote interior villages with the coast. At its peak, it stretched over 400 km across rugged terrain, helping to bridge communities, cultures, and commerce.
Over time, as cars and modern roads replaced traditional transport, much of the railway fell into disuse. But in the 1980s, recognizing its nostalgic and scenic value, Sardinia transformed several routes into tourist lines. Today, the Trenino Verde runs limited journeys on select scenic routes, with original 1930s carriages, vintage locomotives, and stunning views that feel completely untouched by time.
🌿 A Journey Through the Wild Heart: Mandas to Laconi
Begin your adventure in Mandas, once a central hub for Sardinian rail transport. You’ll step aboard 1930s V2D carriages, complete with wooden benches and old-world charm. As the train lurches into motion, it’s clear this will be no ordinary ride.
The journey through Sarcidano begins slowly, allowing you to soak in the sights of sub-mountain landscapes and Mediterranean scrub dotted with wildflowers. A highlight? The long stop in Isili, where you can explore the Nuraghe Is Paras, a 3,000-year-old stone structure from the Nuragic civilization — Sardinia’s very own mysterious Bronze Age culture.
From there, the train winds its way past lakes, viaducts, and tunnels, reaching Nurallao and then Laconi. The terrain here is rugged and dramatic, yet softened by ancient oak forests and glimpses of wildlife — mouflon, wild boars, and eagles often make appearances. The station at Laconi is perched high above the town, offering a panoramic entry to this magical place.
A walk through Parco Aymerich, with its cascading waterfalls, romantic ruins, and fragrant gardens, feels like entering a fairytale. Afterward, settle in for a hearty lunch of local delicacies, followed by a visit to Saint Ignatius’ humble birthplace and the optional Menhir Museum for a glimpse into prehistoric Sardinia.
On the return to Mandas in the golden hues of the afternoon, you’ll find the scenery transformed. The light softens, colors intensify, and the rhythmic motion of the train becomes meditative. It's the kind of moment that etches itself into your memory.
🛤️ Cagliari to Mandas: Retracing the Steps of D.H. Lawrence
Another iconic route takes you from Cagliari’s Monserrato station through Campidano and Trexenta — fertile plains and historic towns. You’ll be on a modern Stadler train to Mandas, following the same path that author D.H. Lawrence took in 1921, immortalized in his travel memoir Sea and Sardinia.
Stops in Soleminis, Donori, and Senorbì reveal the more pastoral, slower-paced life of Sardinia. Once in Mandas, visit the Ethnographic Museum "Is Lollas de Is Aiaius" to immerse yourself in traditional Sardinian life, and the MAHMU Archaeological Museum to explore the layers of civilizations that left their mark on the island.
Round off your visit with a farmhouse lunch, and don't miss the live cooking demo by a local “nonna” (grandmother), sharing secrets of age-old Sardinian recipes. This isn’t just food — it’s cultural preservation on a plate.
🪨 Granite & Legends: From Luras to Tempio Pausania
Step into the authentic heart of Gallura aboard vintage Breda carriages from the 1930s. From Luras, the train snakes through the wind-sculpted granite hills and cork forests that define this region.
You’ll stop in Tempio Pausania, known as the “City of Stone.” Wander its granite alleys, taste local cheeses and wines, and hear stories of Fabrizio De André, the Italian singer who found refuge here. The Art Nouveau murals at the station and the 1913 Bauchiero carriage — once ridden by D.H. Lawrence — connect past and present in an extraordinary way.
Before heading back, you’ll pass through one of the largest cork-growing areas in the Mediterranean, a reminder of the deep connection Sardinians have with their land.
🍷 Vineyards & Murals: Bosa to Macomer
If you're craving coastal charm mixed with rustic beauty, hop aboard the Trenino Verde from Bosa Marina to Macomer. The ride begins beside the sea, then meanders into the Malvasia wine country. You’ll pass through Modolo, Tresnuraghes, and the mural-covered village of Tinnura — a living canvas of Sardinia’s peasant past.
Break for a delicious local buffet (don’t miss the fresh ricotta and almond sweets!) and continue through basalt plateaus and grazing lands to the Cistercian Abbey of Santa Maria di Corte — a site of deep spiritual resonance.
End the day in Macomer, once a rail junction of immense importance, now a sleepy place rich in railway relics and stories. Return to Bosa by bus, heart full and camera roll overflowing.
🌟 Why Trenino Verde Should Be On Your Island Itinerary
More than a train ride, the Trenino Verde is a moving window into Sardinia’s soul. It’s where time slows, landscapes speak, and tradition lives on. Whether you choose the wild forests of Laconi, the historical hubs of Mandas, the windswept granite of Gallura, or the vineyard valleys of Planargia, each route tells its own story.
And the best part? The journey is as unforgettable as the destination. So next time you dream of Sardinia, don’t just think beaches. Think rails. Think stories. Think green.
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