Vaxholm: My Perfect Day Trip from Stockholm

Vaxholm – My Love Letter to Sweden's Gateway to the Archipelago

I have a confession to make: I almost didn’t visit Vaxholm. You see, I was already deep in my Stockholm bubble, sipping oat lattes and thinking the archipelago was just for summer cottage owners. But then a friend whispered, “It’s only an hour away. Go.” And oh, am I glad I listened.

Vaxholm isn’t just any island — it’s the heartbeat of the Stockholm archipelago, with salty breezes, colorful wooden houses, and a fortress that looks like it stepped straight out of a Swedish history book. The town sits on Vaxön (“Wax Island”), though the “wax” has nothing to do with candles — it comes from an old Swedish word meaning fertile.

Getting There – Choose the Boat

‍Yes, you can drive or hop on a bus from Stockholm, but trust me — take the boat. It’s not just transport; it’s a prelude to the whole Vaxholm experience. As you glide through the water, little red cottages pop up on tiny islands, and you start to feel your city stress float away.

First Stop – The Fortress

‍Vaxholm Fortress is impossible to miss. It’s right there, guarding the strait between Vaxön and Rindö. Historically, it fended off Danish and Russian invaders for centuries — until modern cannons made it a bit… well, outdated.
You can get there on a summer ferry (about 100 SEK round trip), or by your own boat if you’re lucky enough to have one. Inside, there’s a museum tracing Swedish coastal defenses from the 1500s onward. Small warning: the plaques are all in Swedish, so ask for an English guide at the ticket desk.

Solo Traveler Tip: Many of the fortress’s activities, like escape rooms or the “Prisoners of the Fortress” game, require a group. If you’re alone (like I was), focus on the art galleries, the history, and the views from the walls.

Food & Fika – The Heart of Vaxholm

‍Let’s be real: fika is a national treasure, and Vaxholm takes it seriously. I followed a local’s tip straight to Café Hembygdsgården, a garden café by the water. The cinnamon buns here are not just good — they’re the kind that make you consider moving to Sweden permanently.
Other solid picks: Hamnkrogen for seafood, Kabyssen for cozy vibes, and Vaxholms Choklad for chocolate (with a Saturday-only tasting experience). If you dare, try the salty licorice chocolate. Sweden loves licorice like no other — I personally think it’s a national form of sweet masochism, but in the nicest possible way.

Beach, Paddle, or Sail?

‍If the weather plays nice, you’ve got options:

• Tienöbadet at Bogesund – A peaceful beach escape.
• Eriksö & Nordhamnsbadet – For a swim and some sunbathing.
• Rent a kayak or SUP board and explore the coastline.
  Feeling chilly? Rent a sauna at the canoeing center and watch the water sparkle from the warm comfort of a wooden cabin.

Something Different – Bogesund Castle & Nature Reserve

‍Just five kilometers from the town lies Bogesund Castle, a gothic revival beauty surrounded by hiking trails and Viking-era remnants. I loved the mix of fairy-tale romance and slightly spooky history. But beware: mosquitoes. The local brand of repellent is called “Mygga” — don’t start your hike without it.

Vaxholm in Every Season

‍I visited in late August, just as the town was slipping into its quieter autumn rhythm. In June and July, Vaxholm buzzes with life, but by September, it becomes peaceful — the kind of place where you hear seagulls and church bells instead of engines and chatter. Winter here is supposed to be magical too: calm, snowy, and perfect for slow mornings in a café.

A Sweet Ending

‍Before I left I tried the salty licorice ice cream. I braced myself… and loved it. Creamy, sweet, with that odd briny kick — it was the perfect final taste of Vaxholm.

So here’s my advice: come for the fortress and the views, stay for the cinnamon buns and chocolate, and leave with the wind in your hair and the scent of the sea in your scarf. Vaxholm isn’t just a trip; it’s an embrace from Sweden itself.